apexart Fellow Journal

Apr 9

jevijoe-apexart

Jevijoe in Tbilisi, Day 27

It is my last day in Tbilisi, and I miss the city already.

I was packing up my things for New York, and I could not believe that I accumulated so much stuff that it wouldn’t fit in my luggage.

I have to buy an additional luggage bag and also some souvenirs and gifts for New York friends, colleagues, and coworkers. But before I did my itinerary, I prepared a brunch for my last stay in this beautiful and historic apartment, just a noodle soup left over and wine while viewing the window, my last stare at the street of Tbilisi from this perfect balcony spot.

I’m filled with gratitude to the people whom I have met here, especially Mariam, who is a wonderful fellowship coordinator here and also an accomplished artist who represented Georgia in the Venice Biennale in 2022!

I thought of a last-minute farewell dinner later this evening, so I messaged most of the people I met through Whatsapp, hoping they could come over.

I rushed outside to buy the cheapest luggage bag. Then I went to the flea market to buy souvenir gifts and ended up being obsessed with coin and money paper bill collections. I found an old $2 US dollar bill that is so rare in the US, as well as commemorative Olympic coins and silver spoons. I was beginning to wonder why I was buying stuff for myself and not for my friends in New York.

During my flea market buying spree, I was impressed by a woman artist’s humility and kindness in selling her small paintings of Tbilisi scenes for 5 lari (that is 1.85 US dollars!). Made of watercolor on linen canvas cloth, I bought several paintings signed by her. I dropped by the local grocery store for souvenir goods and bought variety of Churchkelas, a traditional Georgian candy that looks like candles.

In the evening, I had an incredible dinner night with the Georgian folks, and we talked about a lot of crazy stuff about Georgian history, etc. I recall Nika asking me, “So tell us about your experience in Georgia; we already knew the good ones, but tell us the bad ones.” Honestly, I could not think of “bad ones” or a bad experience at all. It’s one of the cities I visited where I felt safe even in the “after-party” early morning hours. I was searched by police twice, but it was a random routine and respectful.

My Qvevri that I made during the pottery class was delivered that night by Anna, our pottery teacher. It took a while to process the firing, the glazing, etc. because I told her days ago that I really wanted to bring the earthenware to New York.

5 a.m. is my flight the next day, so I have to return the key to the apartment to the Airbnb owner. I met Vahtang, the Airbnb owner’s father, and handed him the key, and I told him, If I’m going back to Tbilisi in the near future, I really want to stay in the same place!

My one-month stay here in Tbilisi has taught me a valuable lesson: Just be present.

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Apr 9

jevijoe-apexart

Jevijoe in Tbilisi, Day 26

I saw my calendar schedule today; it’s raining and I feel like not going out. The event is the 2024 Judo Grand Slam in Tbilisi and starts at 9 a.m. I have never been to a judo event before, and every time I hear the word “judo,"  it reminds me of French conceptual and performance artist Yves Klein, whose first love is not art but judo. Sometimes artists need to have a discipline that is outside of their comfort zone of art practice, similar to Marcel Duchamp joining a chess tournament. This is the main goal of the fellowship: to go to a place outside your comfort zone, take the risk, and dive into the unknown! At the last minute, I changed my mind and rushed to the Olympic Palace.

I came late at around 10 a.m., but the event attendant said I just came on time since it was just the qualifying rounds, and the finals and awarding ceremony will be at 6 p.m. The event seemed brutal and physical, but the martial arts fighters were well disciplined. Judo is not about striking but more about throwing and wrestling. I felt like I was watching gladiators in live action during ancient times.

I was fascinated by the wonders of the human body and its potentiality, the power within us, and the fact that there are so many ways to explore the possibilities of our own physical body. My past physical activities, such as yoga, tai chi, and pilates, have taught me a lot of things about self-awareness and mindfulness.

I visited the Georgian National Museum, where I learned a lot about the old and modern history of Georgia. Like the Judo tournament, I got "grand slammed” by the exhibition about the Soviet occupation of 1921–1991. It was an eye-opener for me about the horrors of the Soviet era, the heroes whose names are not as popular as Stalin but who fought hardly for the independence of Georgia. One name that has struck me is Dimitri Shevardnadze. He is an intellectual artist and also the founder of the Georgian Art Museum. He was shot in 1937 during Stalin’s repressions. I felt it could have been me or any Georgian artist who could be easily imprisoned and shot by merely criticizing the government. I really admired the heroes during the Soviet occupation, including the religious clergy, for their bravery and selflessness. The reason that I enjoyed this present moment in Tbilisi is because they fought for this country to be a better and safer place. They are the real fighters and I feel very grateful!


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Apr 9

jevijoe-apexart

Jevijoe in Tbilisi, Day 25

I wake up early in the morning to visit Udzo Monastery, located on a hill or mountaintop overlooking Tbilisi. I really wanted to go since I have not visited any monasteries here. I wanted to go to a place of meditation.

I took a bus to get there, but I still need to walk for 30 minutes to reach the monastery. Unexpectedly, the weather was not cooperative; it began to rain with zero visibility, turning my visit into a day-hike adventure in the wilderness. No people, no animals; it was just me and nature. I called this majestic woods- “my dreamy forest”. Do Hansel and Gretel show up? or the dragons from Game of Thrones? or the Big Bad Wolf? It was a little bit weird since it was my first time walking in the middle of nowhere alone, but I never felt any fear or even doubt about going back home to the bus stop station. I was already meditating, even though I had not reached my destination. I trust my instinct to move forward.

I was at the front of the monastery at 9:30 am. I thought I was too early and waited for the opening time. The rain got heavier, and I was stuck in a shed outside. At almost 10 a.m., no one was there; the gate was open, so I went through taking pictures. Unluckily, I did not have a good panoramic view of the Caucasus mountains because of the foggy situation. But my experience walking there is invaluable; not even a photo I took can fairly describe that moment.

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Apr 9

jevijoe-apexart

Jevijoe in Tbilisi, Day 24

My second day in Kutaisi, my “task” is to explore Tskaltubo, the Disneyland of spas during Stalin’s Soviet occupation of Georgia. Sometimes I’m thinking that I am doing investigative journalism. Investigating the actual locale versus the general public information about that locale that is seen on social media or the internet.

Tskaltubo is a huge complex that seems to be the same size as the John F Kennedy Airport in New York. There are some spas that are still working and some that are left in ruins.

I went to Bathhouse No. 6 and had different treatment procedures, namely hydro-vibro massage in mineral water, mineral mud called peloidotherapy, and a treatment pool with mineral water. I was fascinated by their timekeeping method, the attendants still use hourglasses with sand. It was my first time to have a mud treatment, it’s like volcanic mud being poured on my whole body. It was hot at first, but then my body started calming down and felt relaxed. I was warped with a plastic sheet as if I were a mummy. I almost fell asleep.

There was a perfect spot. When I was at the treatment pool, diving myself into the mineral water, the sunlight hit the glass window frame, and I saw a very vivid image of a cross, as if I were being baptized again. I had been to Catholic schools from kindergarten to college, but I never considered myself religious. But sometimes strange moments happen that remind me of the Roman emperor Constantine, who dreamt of a cross and converted to Christianity. I just wonder what the sign of the cross is all about. or maybe I just overthink it since I have seen too many crosses in Georgia or maybe a reaffirmation of my Christian faith?

After the spa, I walked towards the abandoned spa buildings. The designs are very ancient Roman, as if the “Roman empire for the masses” in Soviet style.

On my way back to Tbilisi, I have been monitoring my phone once in a while to check if I was going in the right direction, and I came across the dotted lines on the Google Maps, which indicate disputed boundaries and conflict zones, thus probably I am near the border of South Ossetia, which is occupied by Russia. I could already see South Ossetia from a distance, maybe a few miles from my exact spot.
I am not sure if those houses were under construction or abandoned, but it seems empty and there are no people out there.

While I was enjoying myself and reflecting on my once-in-a-lifetime experience here in Georgia, it made me wonder that this country is definitely wonderful and a tough one that has been invaded and occupied by many empires (ancient and modern) yet still survives and maintains its distinctive identity and culture.

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Apr 9

jevijoe-apexart

Jevijoe in Tbilisi, Day 23

Kutaisi, here I come! The second-most important city in Georgia is rich in history and natural wonders.

One of the highlights of the apexart Fellowship program is visiting a place that is far from your residential space. Today, my destination was Kutaisi, 227 kilometers from Tbilisi, approximately a 3-hour minibus ride.

Early in the in the morning, I went to Okriba station in Didube district to take a minibus to Kutaisi. The station reminded me of Manila, Philippines, when I went back to my province, Pampanga. There are “barkers,"  as we call them in the Philippines. They were shouting the destination and competing for passengers or customers. I heard one shouting, "Kutaisi! Kutaisi!”. so I knew that would be my bus.

It was a rainy day, but I made it to Prometheus Cave; unfortunately, it was closed. The fruit vendor in front of the entrance told me that the cave is closed when it rains because of the overflow. Thanks to the Bolt taxi cab driver, who waited for me since there is no accessible transportation that goes to the cave site. So we went back to the main city, he dropped me off at my hotel.

After I checked in at the hotel, I walked towards the Bagrati Cathedral, an ancient architectural monument built in 1003. At the back of the church are medieval ruins that are still evident—the old fortress, castle stone remnants covered with green flora—brought about by a series of human battles and conflicts, but in the end, nature won.

I was mesmerized by the Rioni River with its grand splendor; its rockbed seems like pre-historic bone seashells curved by the hydraulic force, elegant and wild, beautiful and fatal, yet the raging sound of the water is calming.

It’s weird since this is going to be my first and last night in Kutaisi. I need to make the trip worth it! At night, I explored city life; there was not really much happening. I went to a local bar and ordered Bailey’s shot. Sometimes I wonder if those people inside the bar are locals or maybe tourists, strangers like me too, lost in a town or lost in time.


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Apr 9

jevijoe-apexart

Jevijoe in Tbilisi, Day 22

A rainy day in Tbilisi

Rainy days make me lazy. I just wanted to lay in bed for the rest of the day and sip hot chocolate. Every time I check my window, I always have a perfect picture of the city that I wanted to paint at this moment, in this perfect spot. But I need to prepare for my second session of pottery class that has been cancelled several times, so it is like “it’s now or never.”.

For my second pottery class session, Nino was my instructor. She was very kind to me in explaining the delicate method of achieving the shape of my clay jar and also helped me with some basic pottery techniques. There are times that she could not say the words in English; she would type the Georgian word, translate it into English, and show me her phone. I had a terrific time with class and also Nino and Annie of the Ceramic Art Georgia are accomplished artists who are pushing the boundaries of ceramic art. I had an opportunity to see their works since the workshop space is also their art studio.

After the pottery class, I had a meeting with Ina Charkviani, one of the members of the Khma Movement and founder of Cafe Praktika. Ina is also the one who organized the Invisible Labor exhibition about the artworks made by Georgian women caregivers. I finally met her! I really wanted to do collaborative projects with her, perhaps in New York? Stay tune..

That night, I felt that I had made instant friends by attending the English Club at Cafetherapy. Some attendants and participants are already English speakers from the US and UK visiting Tbilisi, and some are Georgians who want to learn more about the English language through real-time conversation.

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Apr 9

jevijoe-apexart

Jevijoe in Tbilisi, Day 21

In the morning, I went to the yoga class that focuses on energy flow, a different type of yoga in which the stomach is the main concern and the instructor emphasizes that the stomach, like our second brain, is an independent thinker. Most of the postures we have done were about how to increase blood flow to our digestive system to combat stress and anxiety.

Then I headed to Gold Market, a shopping center offering a diverse selection of jewelry. Here I met Tamara Khoshtari, an accomplished contemporary jewelry designer. She used to live in New York and was well-traveled. She guided me into the world of jewelry making, and together we explored the silversmith’s workshop spaces located underground in the gold market building. I had my first-hand experience witnessing jewelry design and making; the process is similar to casting a sculpture, but on a small and intimate scale. I was beginning to love the process of making it, from the designing using a 3D computer app and 3D printing to the actual fabrication, which is a lot of manual labor and refining. I felt like this would be my second career in the future!

I visited Tamara’s studio, which was located in the main central area of Tbilisi, and told her that I was familiar with the area as I watched a documentary on YouTube about the Georgian civil war in the 1990s, where the area was a war zone and many buildings were destroyed by heavy artillery. We chat briefly about that horrific phase in the history of modern Georgia, in which her family was deeply affected.

Tamara offered me homemade wine, and I was fascinated by homemade wine, which is common here since a lot of residential homes in the city have grapevine backyards. She suggested I visit Tbilisi in different seasons between September and October to witness grapes growing and harvesting. I would really love to visit the city again soon!

After my productive adventure on jewelry making, I attended the event called Brainwashed: Sex-Camera-Power, organized by Doca Film Club and held at Amirani Cinema. It was a film showing the politics of cinematic shots and how mostly Hollywood movies frame the female body, followed by a group discussion.

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Apr 9

jevijoe-apexart

Jevijoe in Tbilisi, Day 20

Sunday is always chore day. I was supposed to do my laundry, but I decided to do outdoor activities because of the fine weather with the pleasant sunshine. I brought my towel and extra clothes, and I checked the place that is known for outdoor activities and sunbathing. The place is called Lake Lisi. Once I arrived at the lake, there was a little disappointment on my part since it’s chilling! I forgot it was not summer, duh?! Who’s going to sunbathe in this kind of weather? The small lake surrounded by rising building construction reminds me of the artificial lake in Las Vegas, but Lake Lisi is natural.

As I was walking through the pavement boardwalk, I saw a bunch of people in line at a delicacy store called Lumier’s. It’s a “chimney” cake in the form of a cone with assorted fruit and ice cream in it. So I just followed the crowd in line, and I ordered a chocolate with strawberry—the best chimney cake I have had! but actually my first one! I was just enjoying this dessert while mesmerized by the stillness of the lake. It was quite an adventure.

In the afternoon, I visited the Holy Trinity (Sameba) Cathedral. I wanted to check out the infamous painting depicting Joseph Stalin, a Georgian-born Soviet dictator, being blessed by a saint. This year was controversial because a local activist vandalized the work inside the church, saying Stalin killed her ancestors. Unfortunately, I did not find the painting; they probably removed it.

Then I went to a local restaurant near my living place. It was fascinating to me to go here since the restaurant is decorated with photos of the owner, himself, and his customers. It’s like going to Katz’s Delicatessen in New York when you see all these photos of the owner with various celebrities. Finally, I saw him there and had the chance to take a picture with the legend. I wonder if Angelina Jolie was here..

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Apr 9

jevijoe-apexart

Jevijoe in Tblisi, Day 19

I’m not familiar with the gaming world, but I’m always interested in other technologies, especially virtual reality. Today, I went to Stormbringer Studio. I did not expect it to be that far from my place. I thought it was just walkable, but it actually took me an hour to get there. I met Alex Lashkhi, the game programmer and virtual reality developer. We did not talk much about the technicalities of the gaming world, but we talked more about the industry and how it is very competitive.

Then I almost forgot that I have a zine printing workshop! Alex and his staff, friends, and crew had a great conversation while eating pizza and drinking coffee. One thing I’ve learned here is to never refuse if someone offers you a coffee in their homes or offices because they really make the best ones! Real coffee brewed from real coffee beans.

I was late at the zine printing workshop, but the instructor told me it’s fine and I can attend the presentation. It is good that there is a small community of zine makers here. It reminds me of my passionate friends in New York who dedicated themselves to this printed matter culture.

Later that night, I watched the play “Mother” by Florian Zeller at Marjanishvili Theater. It’s like “Off-Broadway” style; the actors are really good! The down side was that I did not understand any of the dialogue since it was in Georgian. The last time I watched a live play (the opera/ballet play and the puppet show), they had a video projection of texts written in English.

It was a busy day for me, so I decided to treat myself to good food! So I tried this time, an Iranian cuisine. Again, I always forgot the names of the dishes; I just pointed to the menu’s photos and asked the server about what kind of meat, if it’s spicy or not, etc. This time, I felt I hit bingo! Grilled lamb chops with yellow rice, herbs, onions, and tomatoes. I was also delighted about the presentation of a metal plate that has ancient Persian decor engraved on it—a fancy plate that could only be seen in museums.

I’m really planning to come back there again before going back to New York. I would never have that kind of Iranian food at that price in New York! Georgia is a truly diverse country! Oh, I remember the dish—it’s called Shishlik!

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Apr 9

jevijoe-apexart

Jevijoe in Tbilisi, Day 18

I went to therapy today. Usually,  I would wake up early and have my breakfast at a nearby restaurant to discover new Georgian food, but today, in order not to be late, I decided to eat at the good old McDonald’s. Sometimes, I have this wild imagination about Mc Donald’s as the American embassy. In case you are lost in the city in any part of the world, your phone runs out of battery, or there is a national emergency, just go to the nearest Mc Donald’s and tell them you are an American with your passport, and you are covered! 
After the therapy, I visited the National Botanical Garden. The place was so huge and seemed to be at the back site of the Narikala fortress. I’ve seen the area before from the above view of Narikala, but this is my first time to come inside the park.
I went to the waterfall to take some photos. The serenity of the place reminds me of the water falls in our small province in the Philippines. I asked this lady if she could take a photo of me with the waterfalls, and she took several shots. Then we chatted for a while, and she said she was from Belarus and now lives in Georgia and Poland. She said that she and her friends were activists back in Belarus, and now they were being tracked down by their government, so they fled elsewhere. 
Our conversation was cut short since I have a schedule later that night and I have to leave the botanical garden. We exchanged contacts, and I hope I will see her again before going back to New York.
The Juma Mosque was nearby. I was planning to come inside, but I felt it was not open to visitors. Since I observed that no one was going inside, Most of the time, if I am not sure of something, I have to wait for other people to enter, so I know it is ok to go. After that, I had a Zoom meeting with Nia and told her about my peculiar experience at the public bath.
Later that night, I met Lexo, an architect at Thelema Bar, and then we went to his friend’s house. There I met Bakar and Zura, both furniture designers; they showed me their work in progress—bed frames and benches that are carefully handcrafted using wood without nails and screws.
I met their friends and decided to go to Bassiani, a famous nightclub here in Tbilisi known for rave music. The dance floor space used to be a swimming pool and is located in the city’s sports arena. The rest was epic.

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Apr 9

jevijoe-apexart

Jevijoe in Tbilisi, Day 17

Finally, it is happening! This is my first time going to a public bathhouse! I’m intimidated at first, but going to a public bath house is much cheaper than the private ones. My first encounter with a bunch of naked men taking a shower, swimming in a hot pool, and having a massage was a bit awkward at first, but as I immersed myself in the multitude, I felt I was already part of the locale. These bathhouses have pools with hot water high in sulfur and minerals that have a lot of health benefits. The founding of Tbilisi is based on the discovery of hot water by the 5th-century King Vakhtang Gorgasali. “Tbili” means warm; the city of Tbilisi is believed to have been built on hot water.

After the public bath experience, I had a Turkish coffee while feeling rejuvenated and sitting near the bridge, just staring at the river. It was a quite unique encounter.

Then, while walking home, I came across an artsy bar restaurant called Impulse for brunch. I just accidently saw the place with some paintings and eclectic sculptures, and I thought it was an art gallery, but it was actually a restaurant owned by a local artist. I always forget the name of the dishes, so sometimes I just point to the picture on the menu or ask the server about the restaurant’s best seller.

In the afternoon, after a long walk to the Ethnographic House by Porakishvili, I think I found my dream house! If I’m going to build my own dream house and I want it designed this way, The elevated house design exemplifies sustainability and practicality. Each room is well-ventilated, with an old-school high ceiling structure for better air circulation. The house (now a public museum) has its own theater, large guest room, large dining hall like a tavern or bar, and the most important thing is that it has its own water well!! What is more sustainable than that?

I had lunch on the terrace of the Kopala Hotel and had the pleasure of seeing the panoramic view of the old and new Tbilisi. I tried new food this time and ordered trout with promegranate sauce and bread! It was not a disappointment this time! I still remember the boiled tongue I ordered last time that did not pass my “acquired” taste. I felt a moment of luxury or “so bougie” while viewing Tbilisi from the top of a hill while enjoying every bite of my meal.

After the nice early dinner, I have to catch the play called Ramona at Gabriadze Theater. This is my first time watching a puppet show! It was really good! Georgians really take pride in their language and culture. While watching the show, there was a video projection of an English translation of the play; it was like watching a movie with an English subtitle. The puppeteers are amazing! Their skill and talent are unparalleled. The play was very comical but tragic in the end—a sort of Romeo and Juliet anthropomorphized like in the animated film Cars (2006).

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Apr 9

jevijoe-apexart

Jevijoe in Tbilisi, Day 16

I started my day with a dynamic hatha yoga class at Lumos Yoga Studio. The yoga was intense and a lot of stretching exercises. Salome, the yoga instructor, was very helpful. We have a one-hour yoga class followed by 30 minutes of individual yoga lessons. She asked me about what I wanted to work on, and I told her that I wanted to improve my back posture and do some shoulder stretching. Some exercises were challenging, but they gave me great relief afterwards.

I went back to the apartment for lunch before heading to the guided tour. Sometimes it’s better to cook food at home since I have a nice balcony to relax and eat.

Zura was our guide today for the Tbilisi Soviet tour. He was really articulate and knowledgeable about Georgian history. Our meeting took place at Liberty Square. He pointed to the monastery or school where Stalin attended and also some buildings that were built during the Russian Empire and later taken over by Stalin’s Bolsheviks.

We took the Metro subway for the tour. The Metro subway going down was really deep underground, as if the escalators do not stop going under. Zura told us that these subway underground stations were also used as bomb shelters during the Cold War, so it makes sense to me now. We went to the Underground printing press created by Joseph Stalin (who was born in Gori, Georgia) for his communist agenda. The place used to be a secret printing press during the Russian Empire and later became a glorious museum during the reign of Stalin’s USSR, but now it looks like a ghost house or a dilapidated museum. My guess is that there is no government initiative to restore these post-Soviet historical sites that glorify Stalin since Georgia has a strained relationship with Russia, and its “candidate status” for European Union membership.

At night, I attended a presentation by Ubani, a Tbilisi Cityscape Research Center. There was a presentation by the non-profit organization about their new projects in Tbilisi, followed by a lecture about “Realism After Real Socialism."  Here was a panel discussion about how to revitalize the cities from the post-Soviet era. There was a question from the audience that struck me about how architects design buildings without any consultation from the local communities or other research-based experts such as sociologists and ethnologists. The architect had a vague answer about their task -"being to play and be creative, not to be involved in politics”, which I found abrupt. I wanted to talk to the person who asked the question after the event, but she had already left.


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Apr 9

jevijoe-apexart

Jevijoe in Tbilisi, Day 15

Today I explored the Dry Bridge Flea Market!

I was completely baffled by the post-Soviet era since this certain history was never discussed when I was growing up in the Philippines or when I migrated to the United States. After the collapse of the USSR, it is fascinating how a lot of productions with labor-intensive craftsmanship, from metalwork and woodwork to weaving (such as carpets), have been reduced in almost no monetary value and now have created a new demand for tourists and collectors for their novelty. I was really intrigued by post-Soviet passports, coins, and medals. I wanted to buy something, but the flea market sellers only wanted cash, so I planned to buy it next time.

Then I walked to Deda Ena Park to see paintings. I love paintings and respect painters regardless of their styles since they still value the “handmade” and put time and effort into the work. How I wish I could buy some paintings!

In the afternoon, I went to the Galaktion Tabidze Memorial House. I thought I was lost since I took my lunch at a nearby Shawarma restaurant. I asked the chef if he knew the place, and he pointed in a different direction, but actually the museum was only beside the restaurant.

I had a great time at the museum, which used to be the apartment of Galaktion Tabidze, who is considered to be the King of Poets in Georgia. He is also an artist who draws some interesting characters and caricatures. I could easily relate when he sketched and mentioned two figures he idolized at that time: Edgar Allan Poe and Arthur Rimbaud, two radical poets ahead of their time.

At 5 p.m., I had an online meeting with Pare, an artist from Thailand who is having a residency in New York right now. We just talked about shared experiences on how it feels to be in a place that you have not been and just feeling the vibe of the surroundings and the people. We also talked about how we are grateful for the unique program of apexart residency, especially having apartments that are accessible to different places and not having to worry much about traveling from one place to another.

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Apr 9

jevijoe-apexart

Jevijoe in Tbilisi, Day 14

It is Monday!

I was supposed to meet Alex Soselia, the founder of Video Archive, who is going to be my guide at the Eliava Market, known for second-hand car parts, but at the at the last minute, he backed out due to a cold. The weather today here is gloomy; it feels like it’s going to rain. I’m not feeling well; maybe the change of weather. I watched a video entitled “Dismantled,"  beautifully written and directed by Mariam Natroshvili (my wonderful coordinator here in Tbilisi!). I was really moved by the story about the life of a second-hand car and also a displaced woman from Abkhazia, their parallel lives of uncertainty, and also that they both deserve a second chance, a sort of re-transformation or rebirth.

Since the postponed guided tour to Eliava Market, Mariam suggested I go to Mtatsminda Park, an amusement park situated at the highest point of Tbilisi.

I finally reached the highest part of Tbilisi, and I saw the big ferris wheel and a tower that I presumed was a radio station tower that is not part of the park. The place is like a version of Disneyland, which was founded by the Soviet government in the 1930s. But now there are Coca-Cola logos and soft drinks in every booth and food chain here.

On my way back to the city center, I took the Funicular. I thought it was a "funny” train, but it actually refers to a type of cable car system on a steep slope. It was not really an amusement ride.

“Books from the Past” is my next destination. It is a bookstore with hard-to-find books and posters, but mostly English-written/American art, architecture, and fashion books. At the front of the bookstore is an Asian restaurant. Sometimes I go to Asian food places to eat food with rice.

At night, I went to Marjanishvili Theater to watch “Mother,” but unfortunately, I was denied entry when the ticket person said that I had a wrong date and that I had to go this coming March 16th and not tonight.

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Apr 9

jevijoe-apexart

Jevijoe in Tbilisi, Day 13

It is my free day, meaning I do not have any scheduled visits today. I’m going to enjoy my place for the rest of the day! And I also need to do my personal basic chores: laundry, cleaning the room, writing and updating my journal, and checking my daily expenses.

It was my first time to do my laundry here in Tbilisi, and I just realized that the washing machine’s instructions are written in Russian with no English translation, so it’s going to be trial and error, but it’s part of the adventure challenge. I checked the brand name of the washing machine and how it works on YouTube. Thanks to the universe! There is one video on how to use it! But then I just found out that there was no machine dryer; maybe people do not use it here. I found a foldable drying rack under the couch and used it. I just posed for a moment and stared at the window with my wet clothes on a drying rack and carpet rug. Like a painting, the view was just perfect.

After almost a whole day of laundry chores, I was in front of my laptop, refreshing myself on Georgian history. I’m really into this epic poem, The Knight in the Panther’s Skin, by Shota Rustaveli, but I could not find one on the internet.

I also researched the Rose Revolution in Georgia,  which has become a symbol of freedom and democracy. In every corner of the streets, I see roses and graffiti of roses.

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